刘江看天下
发表于 2023-12-1 20:53:18
我在柬埔寨纪实（第一章:柬埔寨我来了）
<!----><style type="text/css">html{font-size:375%}</style><link href="https://pic.app.58cammp.com/static/publish/css/style.css?v=1605251010499" rel="stylesheet" position="1" data-qf-origin="/static/publish/css/style.css?v=1605251010499"><!-- 付费贴--> <div class="preview_article "> <!----> <p> 我想我与柬埔寨是有缘分的，1970年代的少年时期，收音机里的新闻中“西哈努克国王”“莫尼克公主”“红色高棉”“波尔布特”等关于柬埔寨的这些符号，在我的脑海里留下了深刻的印象。 </p><p> 大多数人都会遗忘两岁之前的记忆，而我却对两岁之前的梦境记忆犹新，因为有一个梦境时不时的重复出现在我的睡梦中:有一个白衣老头，手里握着一柄权杖，仿佛在召唤我去到他的身边。直到多年以后，我真的在柬埔寨遇到了这样一个人，我的这个梦境戛然而止。</p><p>（关于与这个人的故事将在另外一篇《我在柬埔寨纪实之寻找降头法师》中讲述）</p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.58cammp.com/forum/20231201214812front2_0_68890_FtieF3sFqzKKrxN2OKx70iRMY4Zu.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="1080" height="1394" data-qf-origin="forum/20231201214812front2_0_68890_FtieF3sFqzKKrxN2OKx70iRMY4Zu.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p style="font-weight: 400;">上图是柬埔寨学者型民间大师吉姆法师</p><p> </p><p> 2016年之前，我们在内蒙开鲁大面积种植干辣椒获得成功，目前内蒙开鲁县的道德乡和大榆树镇保持几十万亩的红干椒种植基地，得益于最早是我和大榆树镇的伊殿财。后来我们转战新疆、非洲的莫桑比克大面积种植辣椒、花生获得了丰收。此时在柬埔寨的某投资机构，也想开发农业种植，于是邀请我到柬埔寨考察。 </p><p> 那时候从青岛飞往柬埔寨的航班并不多，要从广州或者昆明转机。今天柬埔寨已经开通了北京、广州、深圳、南宁、昆明、长沙、成都、厦门、郑州、济南的直飞航线。 </p><p> 2016年柬埔寨，我来了。</p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.58cammp.com/forum/20231201214856front2_0_68890_Fn2ZyETCOqSJnSKLvh88oEkyMq59.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="852" height="1280" data-qf-origin="forum/20231201214856front2_0_68890_Fn2ZyETCOqSJnSKLvh88oEkyMq59.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p style="font-weight: 400;">上图是柬埔寨金边的洞里萨河上空俯瞰金</p><p> </p><p> 第一次来金边的时候是柬埔寨的旱季，四月份的金边异常炎热，邀请公司安排我到贡布看种植土地，让我大失所望。柬埔寨的旱季长达半年，这半年里滴雨不下，土地基本都处在干旱状态，与中国肥沃的土地形成鲜明的对比。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.58cammp.com/forum/20231201214921front2_0_68890_FmShQuncQ5u0nuvcKM5zih7_Ib1c.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="854" height="570" data-qf-origin="forum/20231201214921front2_0_68890_FmShQuncQ5u0nuvcKM5zih7_Ib1c.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.58cammp.com/forum/20231201214921front2_0_68890_FtCNyXwxKOiCQbf8p52PE9UERnk3.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="854" height="565" data-qf-origin="forum/20231201214921front2_0_68890_FtCNyXwxKOiCQbf8p52PE9UERnk3.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.58cammp.com/forum/20231201214921front2_0_68890_Fmo1oy5NEm7QL1_m2ZIwyCb2SWz0.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="831" height="570" data-qf-origin="forum/20231201214921front2_0_68890_Fmo1oy5NEm7QL1_m2ZIwyCb2SWz0.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p style="font-weight: 400;">上组图是考察柬埔寨贡布的土地。</p><p> </p><p> 柬埔寨是一个东北西三面高地南向大海的簸箕型国家，东边是越南高地阻挡东来的水汽，西边是泰国高地阻拦了来自泰国的水汽，只有来自南部大海的水汽可以在柬埔寨境内长驱直入，所以形成了柬埔寨不同于周边泰国和越南的气候。但是，柬埔寨的雨季集中在每年的5月至11月，加上地势三面高中间低，所有的地表水涌向中部，形成了东南亚最大的淡水湖——洞里萨湖和洞里萨河。每年的雨季，流水将地表的有机质通通带到湖里、河里，所以柬埔寨的土地普遍砂化，并不肥沃。</p><p> 我向邀请公司提交了考察报告，认为所考察地域不适合种植辣椒、花生等农作物，倒是可以种植水果，在从贡布回金边的路上，我看到了卖榴莲的摊位，这是我第一次知道柬埔寨也有榴莲。这为我以后种植榴莲打下了基础。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.58cammp.com/forum/20231201214956front2_0_68890_FuCOkNf_vP8e7BQVNsTQp_cajK5m.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="824" height="576" data-qf-origin="forum/20231201214956front2_0_68890_FuCOkNf_vP8e7BQVNsTQp_cajK5m.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p> </p><p style="font-weight: 400;">上图穿白衣者是曹立，我第一次到柬埔寨，是曹立到机场接我的</p><p> </p><p> 我入住的酒店是莫尼旺大道旁边的“晶华酒店”，晶华酒店的对面是世豪酒店，两个酒店的老板都是阿红，阿红在金边附近也有一个庄园，听说我是搞农业种植的，于是邀请我去她家的庄园考察，看能不能在她的庄园里种植葡萄。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.58cammp.com/forum/20231201215056front2_0_68890_FgUpSEmmB92Pb3rn4_T_Ebzq2cso.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="960" height="1280" data-qf-origin="forum/20231201215056front2_0_68890_FgUpSEmmB92Pb3rn4_T_Ebzq2cso.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.58cammp.com/forum/20231201215054front2_0_68890_FkW42-944y8fr_u0X-IrmRvrjpEL.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="960" height="1280" data-qf-origin="forum/20231201215054front2_0_68890_FkW42-944y8fr_u0X-IrmRvrjpEL.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.58cammp.com/forum/20231201215054front2_0_68890_Fr4y8_EWdjMNOi1r8T4K6qitMMZW.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="960" height="1280" data-qf-origin="forum/20231201215054front2_0_68890_Fr4y8_EWdjMNOi1r8T4K6qitMMZW.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.58cammp.com/forum/20231201215054front2_0_68890_FuHqJan7zHE3kiBkX-hXfpPT7Mdh.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="960" height="1280" data-qf-origin="forum/20231201215054front2_0_68890_FuHqJan7zHE3kiBkX-hXfpPT7Mdh.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p>（上图是阿红带我们在她的庄园考察）</p><p> </p><p> 阿红的庄园里种植的都是果树，大田的经济作物是没有的，我很奇怪，当地人吃的蔬菜怎么没有种植呢？他们告诉我酒店不远处就有一个大型的“萨达姆购”农产品批发市场（后来中国人根据音译把这里翻译为“沙龙沟”，柬埔寨翻译告诉我说不如“萨达姆购”确切。）这个批发市场只在晚间批发，天亮就散了。 </p><p> 于是，当天晚上，我就一个人打车来到了“萨达姆购”批发市场。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.58cammp.com/forum/20231201215155front2_0_68890_Ftqy6evtLGjukfUm0xxDbLQVl9oS.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="883" height="557" data-qf-origin="forum/20231201215155front2_0_68890_Ftqy6evtLGjukfUm0xxDbLQVl9oS.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.58cammp.com/forum/20231201215227front2_0_68890_FsRX8DLE9Z0h8iiWctemVtorBqTF.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="580" height="326" data-qf-origin="forum/20231201215227front2_0_68890_FsRX8DLE9Z0h8iiWctemVtorBqTF.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p style="font-weight: 400;">金边“萨达姆购”蔬菜批发市场</p><p> </p><p> 在“萨达姆购”（或音译为“沙南哥”）批发市场，我看到大部分都是越南人在这里批发农产品，这些农产品基本都是从越南、从泰国运过来的，这里也有中国的土豆、洋葱、大蒜、胡萝卜等。留下个问题:柬埔寨当地为何不种蔬菜呢？ </p><p> </p><p> 第一次来到柬埔寨，感觉这是一个佛系的国度。从首都金边到乡下，一路上看到无数的寺庙，我说，柬埔寨最好的建筑是寺庙。</p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.58cammp.com/forum/20231201215247front2_0_68890_Fh8zw0C-AqRtTNqewE_ibwmT_OOf.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="960" height="1280" data-qf-origin="forum/20231201215247front2_0_68890_Fh8zw0C-AqRtTNqewE_ibwmT_OOf.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.58cammp.com/forum/20231201215245front2_0_68890_FoNlmxkeg0YPF-QrXubYM1s-LXX8.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="960" height="1280" data-qf-origin="forum/20231201215245front2_0_68890_FoNlmxkeg0YPF-QrXubYM1s-LXX8.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p class="empty_paragraph"> </p><p class="qf_image big noneditable" contenteditable="false"><img src="https://pic.app.58cammp.com/forum/20231201215244front2_0_68890_FtSIQXuE1ytVt1rnu8-B9xIoAWkD.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" alt="" width="640" height="640" data-qf-origin="forum/20231201215244front2_0_68890_FtSIQXuE1ytVt1rnu8-B9xIoAWkD.jpg?watermark/1/image/aHR0cHM6Ly9waWMuYXBwLjU4Y2FtbXAuY29tL2FkbWluX0Z1cUVMWGRZWVNZUEE2WnBub01EdTFXTi1CYW0ucG5n/dissolve/90/gravity/SouthEast" /></p><p>（上边组图是金边皇宫广场）</p><p> </p><p> 像普通的旅行者一样，走马观花柬埔寨几天，淳朴的柬埔寨民风给我留下了深刻的印象。在皇宫广场，我看到了人人佛系的微笑；在皇宫广场，我看到从中国澜沧江流水过来的湄公河与洞里萨河汇合，向南流去。我想起我最早上QQ的网名叫“江流”，而“江流”也是《西游记》里唐僧的小名，唐僧在西天取经的归途中，路过通天河，这个通天河就是湄公河。唐僧把“谶语”部分经卷落下在渡船上，把大乘佛教带回唐都发扬光大，而湄公河流域受这个《谶语》经卷而发展起来小乘佛教。</p><p> 冥冥之中，我与柬埔寨有千丝万缕的关系，说不清，道不明，不管怎样，柬埔寨，我来了！</p> <!----></div>
刘江看天下
发表于 2023-12-1 20:54:40
请跟随我的视角，看一个真实的柬埔寨。
无语“伦”比
发表于 2023-12-2 18:35:48
先笑就后哭
67e25c7aa2be3
发表于 2023-12-2 14:40:42
经历各有不同
有机农业吉祥物
发表于 2023-12-3 10:55:24
有钱全世界通行，没钱在柬埔寨试试，有这么潇洒吗？
JunK
发表于 2023-12-2 21:00:21
講故事吧
快乐至上
发表于 2023-12-2 20:14:07
好像很多年前看过你写文章
VincentZheng
发表于 2023-12-2 19:30:44
继续，期待续集
天籁
发表于 2023-12-2 18:28:53
:):)
高棉的等候
发表于 2023-12-2 17:28:09
写得很好！继续！
高棉渣渣辉
发表于 2023-12-2 17:01:43
老板威武